I have learned that discussing glues is a lot like discussing politics or religion and usually produces the same results. You have your beliefs and nothing you say is going to change the way the other person feels about the topic so…. While I like to think I am somewhat progressive and adaptive of new technologies exemplified by my including ACC in my arsenal of tools, I am a firm believe in “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”. In response to several questions I have gotten on glues here is what I use and why feel free to disagree.
I use Ambroid for all wood to wood joints. This is a good example of the above mentioned adage. I like Ambroid wood cement because unlike many water based glues, it permeates the wood and then shrinks as it dries. Some modelers claim to have experienced failed joints that were made with Ambroid due to it crystallizing over time but I believe that was because they had not clamped the joint during the drying process. I clamp the joint during the drying process as often as possible and have never had a joint failure and I have some freight and passenger cars as well as structures that were built using Ambroid in 1975. Many of those models and endured the hardships associated with being transported from home to clubs more times than I care to think about and they remain in good shape. Some other model builders such as Harold Shelton and George Selious prefer Elmer’s Glue All.
I do use Elmer’s Glue All for scenery applications. Thinned down with a few drops of Photo Flo or dish washing detergent for ballast and full strength for applying branches to trees etc.
I use ACC, the small bottle labeled M1100G, for most small joints such as building the hand railings on a stairway or for applying small detail parts like the corbels to a model. Delicate joints that will not take a lot of punishment. I have no particular brand favorite because it seems every time I go to the hobby shop they never have the same brand available. I do however insist on using the medium viscosity mix. When applying it to wood I find it works best if you apply a light coat, let that get absorbed by the wood for a few seconds then apply a second light coat. I store it in a resealable plastic bag and then insert that into a capped prescription bottle. All that is my attempt to keep air from getting to it. Previous attempts at refrigeration failed to extend the life of this product. I squeeze a bit into the cap of the medicine bottle and use a toothpick as applicator. When the cap gets loaded I just flex it a bit and the old glue chips off.
I use the twin tube 5 minute Epoxy (none shown) for attaching metal to wood such as steps on the passenger car platforms because Epoxy provides a strong joint that takes a lot of abuse. Again, no particular brand for the same reason stated above.
For plastic to plastic joints I use Testors Liquid Cement for plastics. Black container with application nozzle. Readily available in most hobby shops, many craft stores or I have even seen it in Wal-Mart. I squeeze a bit into a plastic cap from 35mm film and use a toothpick as applicator. This will also chip out of the cap when dry.
I use Barges, blue tube, cement as a contact cement. Contact cements are my least favorite and least used of all my adhesives. Cleanup of wayward strains can be done using most solvents such as Xylene which can also be used to thin Floquil paints.
Finally I use Westinghouse Silicone sealer to mount can type motors in locomotives. This provides a stable mounting while insolating the chassis from all motor vibrations and harmonics that can cause noise. It also provides the electrical insulation between motor and chassis necessary for installation of DCC components. There is a very slight amount of shrinkage during the drying process.
While not a glue, I seal all wood that is supposed to represent a smooth surface with numerous applications of Scalecoat sanding sealer. Ol’ Harold uses a Lacquer based sanding sealer which I found is available from Lowe’s stores and he uses Lacquer thinner, not paint thinner, to thin it and for brush cleanup.
That’s it folks, now you know!
CWRailman
I use Ambroid for all wood to wood joints. This is a good example of the above mentioned adage. I like Ambroid wood cement because unlike many water based glues, it permeates the wood and then shrinks as it dries. Some modelers claim to have experienced failed joints that were made with Ambroid due to it crystallizing over time but I believe that was because they had not clamped the joint during the drying process. I clamp the joint during the drying process as often as possible and have never had a joint failure and I have some freight and passenger cars as well as structures that were built using Ambroid in 1975. Many of those models and endured the hardships associated with being transported from home to clubs more times than I care to think about and they remain in good shape. Some other model builders such as Harold Shelton and George Selious prefer Elmer’s Glue All.
I do use Elmer’s Glue All for scenery applications. Thinned down with a few drops of Photo Flo or dish washing detergent for ballast and full strength for applying branches to trees etc.
I use ACC, the small bottle labeled M1100G, for most small joints such as building the hand railings on a stairway or for applying small detail parts like the corbels to a model. Delicate joints that will not take a lot of punishment. I have no particular brand favorite because it seems every time I go to the hobby shop they never have the same brand available. I do however insist on using the medium viscosity mix. When applying it to wood I find it works best if you apply a light coat, let that get absorbed by the wood for a few seconds then apply a second light coat. I store it in a resealable plastic bag and then insert that into a capped prescription bottle. All that is my attempt to keep air from getting to it. Previous attempts at refrigeration failed to extend the life of this product. I squeeze a bit into the cap of the medicine bottle and use a toothpick as applicator. When the cap gets loaded I just flex it a bit and the old glue chips off.
I use the twin tube 5 minute Epoxy (none shown) for attaching metal to wood such as steps on the passenger car platforms because Epoxy provides a strong joint that takes a lot of abuse. Again, no particular brand for the same reason stated above.
For plastic to plastic joints I use Testors Liquid Cement for plastics. Black container with application nozzle. Readily available in most hobby shops, many craft stores or I have even seen it in Wal-Mart. I squeeze a bit into a plastic cap from 35mm film and use a toothpick as applicator. This will also chip out of the cap when dry.
I use Barges, blue tube, cement as a contact cement. Contact cements are my least favorite and least used of all my adhesives. Cleanup of wayward strains can be done using most solvents such as Xylene which can also be used to thin Floquil paints.
Finally I use Westinghouse Silicone sealer to mount can type motors in locomotives. This provides a stable mounting while insolating the chassis from all motor vibrations and harmonics that can cause noise. It also provides the electrical insulation between motor and chassis necessary for installation of DCC components. There is a very slight amount of shrinkage during the drying process.
While not a glue, I seal all wood that is supposed to represent a smooth surface with numerous applications of Scalecoat sanding sealer. Ol’ Harold uses a Lacquer based sanding sealer which I found is available from Lowe’s stores and he uses Lacquer thinner, not paint thinner, to thin it and for brush cleanup.
That’s it folks, now you know!
CWRailman
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