A little information about this build:

I had originally designed this station about 6 years ago as part of an on going project I am working towards. However, I recently reworked it to accommodate the roof brackets that were left over from another station project that was started about a year ago. Ironically this project is being completed before that larger structure.

The roof brackets used in this project are part of a set of castings used to build ATSF type Depots which I purchased from an Ebay seller. That seller is now offering just the brackets for sale. You can check out her current listing item # She has a few of these so if this listing is completed check out her store for additional items. All the window and door castings used in this project are readily available directly from Grandt Line or one of their resellers.

You can download a PDF copy of the plans for this combination Station/Freighthouse. The first sheet shows the elevations for the sides, end walls and one interior wall. The second sheet includes a “Bill of Materials” as well as the footprint for the structure and a layout of the interior. There are times when I look at the design of a structure and wonder about the interior configuration. Since this station is small I laid out the interior to show the feasibility of design and appropriate location of windows and doors.

Some of you will note the lack of bathroom facilities. My station is in a very rural community and represents the early 1900’s. When installed on location, there will be a complementary outhouse in the vicinity.

My allowable space for this structure is very confined which provided me with a very specific foot print and resulted in the station width of 11’-0”. The third sheet is optional elevations showing the end walls and platform 3 feet wider. I provide this option for those who may have more real estate on which to place their station. You may wish to make the structure wider as shown on sheet 3 or longer or both. If you use the same roof brackets make sure any dimensional changes do not alter the roof slope.

These files are formatted to print out HO Scale plan sets on Legal size 8.5" x 14" paper.

Station/Freighthouse Sheet 1 Elevations & Details

Station/Freighthouse Sheet 2 Floor Plan & Bill of Materials

Station/Freighthouse Sheet 3 Optional Elevations

Due to a request I had from some folks modeling in N Scale I scaled the sheets for their use. Please note that the Bill of Materials has not been adjusted to reflect use of N Scale components and because I used a scaling factor, all the text is also scaled down. There are only 2 sheets in the N Scale set. These files are formatted to print out N Scale plan sets on Letter size 8.5" x 11" paper.

Station/Freighthouse Sheet 1 Elevations & Details

Station/Freighthouse Sheet 3 Optional Elevations

Now that you are up to speed on what I have been doing, and you have the plans and the castings or some similar castings in hand, it’s time to decide on the siding material. I am going to be working with wood siding and all my comments will reflect using that material but you may decide to use styrene sheets. Remember that you are working on the back side so all measurements will be opposite hand. If you are using directional siding such as lap siding, prior to transferring your design, place some arrows along the sheet on the back side to indicate which direction is down. Yes, I know it sounds stupid until you discover that you have accidentally made that mistake.


Tools and Other Sundries:

Before getting into the building of the Station/Freighthouse, let me talk briefly about tools, techniques and skills associated with this project. I am going to assume that you may want to build your own Station/Freighthouse or some similar structure so allow me to throw out a few comments about tool and materials selections.

You will need a few basic tools to complete this or a similar project. You’ll need one or more X-Acto knives with no. 11 blades and a chisel blade would be nice to have. I have a personal assistant, Stanley who assists me by keeping all my tools readily available and within easy reach. See my June 13, 2012 Blog for an introduction to my personal assistant Stanley.

Accurate measurement, marking and cutting of materials is very important to assuring a good fit and finish of all components. Keeping the assemblies square to one another while glued joints dry will also determine the quality of the completed model. See my June 6, 2012 Blog for a description of the various Layout and Measuring tools I use.

Many modelers use a white or yellow carpenters wood glue, I prefer to use Ambroid glue because I like the way it permeates the wood and shrinks when it dries. I have models over 35 years old that were assembled with Ambroid glue and have never had a joint failure. See my August 24, 2012 Blog for a description of the various Glues and Adhesives I use.

I also use a medium viscosity ACC glue for adding small parts. Whatever your preference in glues, a box of round wooden toothpicks and a box of the thinner flat wooden toothpicks are indispensable for applying small quantities of glue exactly where it is needed on the model. Some modelers use way too much glue as they must feel it is necessary to achieve a good joint or maybe to compensate for a bad fit between parts. The trick to achieving a tight bond between components is not how much glue is used but rather keeping pressure on the joint while the glue dries. To achieve tight joints, I first select what I believe is the proper glue for the job and then I make use of numerous clamping devices as well as heavy objects from around my shop to compress assemblies while the glued joint is drying. See my July 10, 2012 Blog for a description of the various Clamps I use. Follow up by Guest Blogger Ol' Harolds July 11, 2012 Blog for his take on less conventional Clamps.

I have been a faithful user of Floquil paints for many years. On this build I use two Floquil colors noted in the Materials list. For cleanup or to thin the paint I use a solvent called Xylene/Xylol which I buy at my local ACE Hardware store in quart cans. On this project I used a #5 flat soft bristle brush for applying the India ink stain. I used a #5 flat, stiff bristle, brush to dry brush the walls and all trim. I will be using my airbrush to paint the window and door castings but they can also be brush painted.

I have found that given enough time, any structure built from wood will warp and twist itself so as not to sit level. To offset this tendency, I have added a lot of 3/16” x 3/16” interior bracing.

Time to get to work.


Building the Station/Freighthouse

(The Clock is Ticking)